Types of Edge Finishes in Sewing

You may have come to this post because you are curious about the many types of edge finishes in sewing. We are going to go over why you need to finish your edges and how you can go about doing it.

There are many ways sewers use to finish fabric edges, today we will go over the most common methods.

Why Do You Need to Finish Fabric Edges?

The main reason for finishing fabric edges is to keep the fabric from fraying. It also can give the fabric seams more support and in some cases is used for decorative uses as well.

There are many types of edge finishes in sewing that you can do. I hope to explain the most common ways to finish edges and how to sew them.

The Most Common Types of Edge Finishes in Sewing

The Hemmed edge

One of the most common ways to finish fabric edges is to have a hemmed edge. Usually, I will do a hemmed edge on the bottom of skirts or pants or even on the bottom of a top. Most times I will combine serging and hemming on the bottom of my garments.

To hem a garment you need to first mark your hem evenly, then trim off the access fabric and turn your hem up and stitch down.

The Serged edge

The serged edge is another common method of finishing edges. In this method, you would need to use a special machine called a serger, which creates a clean-cut edge using a knife and loops thread around the edge to keep the fabric from fraying.

If your interested in understanding the difference between a sewing machine and a serger, you can read my blog post about it here.

The French seam

The next type of way to finish edges is to use a french seam. This is a more fancy way of finishing edges and takes a bit longer to do, but it is well worth the time for the beautiful finish it creates.

A french seam is often used for garments that are see-through like chiffon, for example. Or it can also be a good option if you don’t own a serger. It creates a much more professional-looking garment in the end and is used for a lot of formal wear.

A french seam is created by sewing the wrong sides of the fabric together, instead of the right sides together. Next, you would need to trim any seam allowance down to about 1/4″ and then sew the seam again right sides together so that the raw edge of the fabric is hidden inside of the seam.

The Bound edge

A bound edge is a way of finishing edges fashionably. This is often seen in high-end jackets that do not contain lining. If you open up these jackets you may see that both edges of the seam allowance are sealed with a coordinating fabric to create a beautiful and high-end-looking finish.

To create a bound edge, you would need to use either a complementary fabric or a bias binding and enclose the raw edge of the seam allowance with the binding fabric.

Other Types of Edge Finishes in Sewing

The Overcast edge

An overcast edge is much like a serged edge but instead of using a serger you would use your sewing machine. It finishes the edge of the fabric in much of the same way that a serger does by looping thread around the raw edge of the fabric.

To do an overcast edge you would need to have a special foot for your sewing machine used specifically for this purpose. Refer to your owner’s manual for how to do this.

The Raw edge

A raw edge is much like it sounds. It’s the edge of the fabric unfinished or with nothing done to it, just as it comes from the manufacturer.

You can leave the edges of your garment raw if you have a fabric that will not fray or rip on its own. In most cases you may see the raw edge of a jersey type of fabric as they don’t tend to easily unravel. It will depend on the fabric you are working with and what look you want in the end. A raw edge often creates a more unfinished, casual look.

The Folded Edge

A folded edge is another useful way of finishing edges. This method would most likely be used more as a hem, not so much in the seams of a garment.

A folded edge is created by folding the fabric twice and then stitching it down so that the raw edge is hidden and stitched down inside the hem.

The Rolled Edge

The rolled edge is also a way to finish edges that requires a serger. The serger will simultaneously roll the fabric over and stitch it down.

You can also do a rolled edge with a sewing machine however you would likely use a special type of foot. It will also be a bit different than a rolled edge on a serger. There are various ways of creating a rolled hem.

The Piped edge

A piped edge is made by sewing the raw edge of the fabric to the piping to create a polished finish. It is similar to a bound edge but a bit different. It can also be added to the seams of a garment.

A piped edge is used a lot in heirloom sewing or children’s garments. You would see it possibly around the sleeve opening, the hem or around the collar of a dress. Piping is also often used on throw cushions for a decorative touch.

There is a great tutorial on thetreasurie.com for sewing on piping here!

The Ruffled edge

The ruffled edge is a beautiful way of finishing edges by adding a ruffle to the fabric hem or sleeve, for example. This can be done in different ways as well. You would most likely make a ruffled edge on the hem or sleeve of a dress or possibly a skirt or blanket.

A ruffled edge can be made by cutting a strip of fabric longer than the fabric edge to which you will attach it. Then you could baste across the very top of the ruffle and pull the bobbin thread to create gathers. Once the ruffle and the edge of your fabric are the same in length then you can stitch on your ruffle to your garment or fabric edge.

The Scalloped Edge

The scalloped edge is a great way of finishing the edges of sleeves or hems.

Some fabrics have a scalloped edge from the manufacturer. In this case you would just have to lay your pattern pieces out accordingly so that the placement of the scallop is where you want it.

Another way of creating a scalloped edge is to use the scallop setting on your sewing machine to create it manually. There are various ways to create a scalloped edge as well.

Another way could be to use a fabric that does not fray and then trace a scallop with a stencil along the edge of your fabric and cut out the shape afterwards.

The Picot Edge

A picot edge is a less known method of finishing edges but it has been around for a long time. You can think of it as, a combination of the overcast edge and the scalloped edge. You may see this used on necklines of tee shirts or hems of chiffon or lightweight fabrics

A picot edge can be made by hand or by sewing machines. Here is a great article to read if you’re interested in making the picot edge.

The Pinked Edge

A pinked edge is an older method used to prevent fraying. Pinking shears were used before the invention of the serger. This method can still be used in modern sewing for convenience or if someone wants to create a specific look or does not own a serger.

To pink edges you would need to buy a pair of pinking shears, which are scissors that have a zig-zag type of edge rather than a straight edge. All you need to do is cut the edge of the fabric with the scissors and you’re done. It’s a quick and easy method of finishing edges.

The Laced edge

A laced edge is another wonderful way to finish edges by using lace. A laced edge can be made by adding lace to the edge of your fabric or it could also be if you are sewing a garment made completely of lace material that has a border to it.

You could add lace in a variety of ways. You could add it to the collar of a garment as seen in vintage garments. You can add it to the hem of a skirt or dress. You could even add it to the hem or sleeves of a shirt or as a decorative touch anywhere on your garment.

Lace fabric is very beautiful. If you are sewing a garment made entirely of lace it could be done much like the scalloped edge. Lay your pattern pieces along the border of the lace so that they line up accordingly.

The Fringed Edge

A fringed edge is different than other edges in the fact that it is purposely frayed to create a specific look. A fringed edge can be seen in certain types of fabric that are woven together. It is used on rugs, jeans, placemats, scarves, etc.

A fringed edge is made by purposefully pulling threads out of the very edge of the fabric. Some fringes are tied, others are left plain and possibly have a binding added to the inside of the fabric to prevent the fraying from coming undone further.

The Coverstitched Edge

Lastly, the coverstitched edge is unique. This edge is created by using a coverstitch machine which is different from a serger. Some sergers have a coverstitch feature, but that would depend on your machine. This method is often used for hemming stretch or jersey fabric or used for active wear.

To create a coverstitched edge you need a coverstitch machine or a serger that converts. You need to then measure your fabric and turn up your hem. Using your coverstitch machine run the fabric through and the machine will do the rest.

If your interested in learning more about the coverstitch machine vs. serger, check out this post.

I hope you found this article helpful and let me know in the comments what your favourite method is!