The Best Tips for Sewing with Denim
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Sewing with denim can be difficult for a beginner sewer or even for an experienced sewer because of the thickness of the fabric. Below are my best tips for sewing with denim to make the process smoother.
Tip #1 : Use Jean Needles
My first tip for sewing with denim and probably the most important is to use the proper needles for your sewing machine and serger if you are sewing with denim. The size of needle recommended by my machine, which is a Babylock Jubilant, is size 100/16 or 90/14.
Note: Jeans needles may not work with your specific serger, do your research for your specific machine, check your manual and ask someone at your local sewing machine shop or dealer.
If you use regular needles it is easier for your needle to break. It’s also hard on your machine to push through the layers of thick fabric which can cause your sewing machine to break.
Click here to shop my favorite brand of jeans needles!
Tip #2 : Use The Correct Thread
When you are sewing with denim another good tip is to use a strong thread. There are a variety of threads you can use but often when you see jeans in a store the thread is thicker and more noticeable than on other garments.
Do your research on the types of threads you can use and choose the right one for your project. The larger the thread size the bolder appearance you will get.
Click here to read about my favorite brand of sewing thread!
Tip #3 : Sew Slowly
When you are sewing with thicker fabrics such as denim you want to make sure you aren’t rushing. When you sew thicker fabrics your machine has to work harder and can easily skip stitches or have other issues.
The best thing to do is give yourself plenty of time and allow your machine to work well and slowly through the fabric.
Tip #4 : Use a Hump Jumper for Thick Seams
If you don’t know what a hump jumper is, it is a nifty little tool that helps your sewing machine foot move smoothly over thick seams or humps in your fabric. When sewing with denim you may encounter thick seams that will cause your sewing machine to jam up or skip stitches.
Get a hump jumper to slide under the back of your sewing machine foot. This keeps your sewing machine foot level so it can easily maneuver over the hump and then you can remove the hump jumper and continue sewing.
Click here to shop the hump jumper!
Tip #5 : Use Longer Stitches
Another tip is to use a longer stitch length than you would normally. It is recommended to use a stitch length between 3.0mm and 4.0mm. This will help the stitching look better and also avoid skipped stitches.
If you still have issues you can try adjusting the tension of your sewing machine as well but make sure to write down your original settings or take a picture before playing with them so you can set them back to the original setting once you’re finished with your project. Also, test your stitches on a scrap piece of denim before sewing your project.
Tip #6 : Use a Clapper to Assist With Pressing
Denim can be stubborn to press. If you are having trouble getting your seams flat or getting your denim to press well try using a clapper. This is a wooden tool that you can use to “clap” the fabric and trap in the heat to help the fabric lay flat.
Click here to read my post on the best pressing tools for sewing!
Click here to shop the clapper!
Tip #7 : Change your Sewing Machine Needles Often
When sewing with denim you will need to change your sewing machine needles more than usual. It is important to use a denim needle but also to change your needle often to keep it sharp and avoid unnecessary strain on your machine.
If you have been sewing along smoothly and you start to notice issues all of a sudden, try changing your needle.
Note: If you are using a serger when sewing with denim be sure to also change your knife as denim is hard to work through and may cause your knife to become dull.
Tip #8 : Use Clips Instead of Pins When Sewing With Denim
You may struggle to pin your layers of denim together because of the thickness. I recommend using fabric clips instead of pins to hold your pieces together. This will work better and make the sewing process smoother and easier. You will probably save yourself from stabbing your finger too!
Click here to shop the fabric clips!
Let me know if you struggle to sew with denim and if you have any other tips that would be helpful! I’d love to hear from you in the comments below!
If you’re interested in sewing with velvet check out this post!
